Don't be parsimonious with the parsley!

I had the good fortune to dine at Esca recently, Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and chef David Pasternack's Italian seafood restaurant in Hell's Kitchen. The entire meal was wonderful, but what lingers with me even more than maccheroni alla chittara with sea urchin and crab meat, is the parsley. The parsley at Esca is a revelation.

Parsley is the red headed step child of the herb family. Everyone gushes over the fresh summer basil at the farmer's market, and those who love cilantro do so with ferocity. But parsley is largely ignored by American diners. When it appears on the plate, it's as an afterthought – chopped and sprinkled across fish, or set to the side of a shrimp cocktail platter in its curly form. The most publicity parsley has received was on Sex and the City, when Carrie fakes a parsley allergy and is rudely called out by her then boyfriend, Berger ("If I don't say I'm allergic, it magically winds up all over the plate!")

I don't blame the character of Carrie Bradshaw, because her oven is used for storage and she seems to subsist on cosmos, pizza and brunch. But if she ate the calamari appetizer at Esca, she might change her tune. The grilled local squid is sliced and served with hot red pepper, lemon, dashes of olive oil and flat leaf parsley. The herb isn't chopped and added for color, but exists in its whole leaf form as a main feature. It tastes green, zesty and lends a brightness to the dish that suits the creaminess of tender squid. It was like eating an organic, locally raised chicken after years of packaged Purdue breasts, an aha! moment of "so this is what it's supposed to taste like."

I've frequently used flat leaf (aka Italian) parsley in sauces, but never understood how truly wonderful it can be in its natural form until that moment at Esca. Give a vibrant bunch of the fresh herb a rough chop, and it's ready to shine in salads or rustic toppings on meat and seafood. I'm still not on the curly leaf bandwagon, but am willing to keep an open mind if I encounter it in a non-garnish form. Until then I'll be sticking to its flat leaf sibling, and experimenting with the following recipe tonight.

Grilled Veal Chops with Toasted Pine Nut Gremolata
(2 servings)

Gremolata is an Italian fresh chopped herb sauce that typically accompanies osso buco, braised veal shanks. I don't have the hours to devote to braising, so I'm grilling marinated veal chops and finishing the dish with the tangy parsley topping.

The gremolata recipe is adapted from The Babbo Cookbook by Mario Batali, and the marinade from Bon Appetit, August 2003.

INGREDIENTS:

Veal
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
2 8- to 10-ounce loin or rib veal chops, each about 1 inch thick

Gremolata
Leaves from 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted at 400°F. for 2 minutes
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp minced garlic
1/4 cup freshly grated horseradish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

PREPARATION:


For veal:
Whisk first 5 ingredients in small bowl to blend. Arrange veal chops in a glass baking dish or other nonreactive receptacle. Sprinkle chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Pour marinade over chops; turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, turning occasionally.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat), or an indoor electric grill. Remove chops from marinade and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Grill chops until cooked to desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer chops to serving platter.

For gremolata:
Make the gremolata just before the meat is placed on the grill. In a small bowl, combine the parsley leaves, pine nuts, lemon zest, and horseradish and mix well by hand. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and set aside.

To finish:
Sprinkle the gremolata on top of the cooked veal chops. Serve with a caesar salad and rice pilaf or orzo for a complete meal.

Browse Culinary Arts Schools & Colleges

Refine School Matches
Hide filters
  • SUBJECT Clear All

    See More

  • DEGREE

    See More

  • PROGRAM TYPE

  • START TIME

    LOCATION
    Please enter valid US or Canada Zip.
            Results open in new window

            Searching Searching ...

            Matching School Ads
            5 Program(s) Found
            • Alumni have appeared in reality competition shows such as Top Chef and Project Runway.
            • Has a team of about 4,000 faculty members focused on helping students tap opportunities in a marketplace driven by ideas.
            • Offers programs in design, media arts, fashion, and culinary.
            • Provides program coordinators who work with students to ensure they have the learning materials, assignments, facilities, and faculty to get the most out of the program.
            • Over 50 campus locations nationwide.
            Good for Working Adults
            • Flexible Scheduling
            • Financial Aid
            • Transferable Credits
            5 Program(s) Found
            • Hands-on culinary education with focused attention on each student
            • An ACCSC School of Excellence with multiple “Best Vocational Cooking School” awards*
            • 15,000 graduates, including celebrities like Bobby Flay, David Chang, and Christina Tosi*
            • Programs in Culinary Entrepreneurship, Professional Culinary Arts, Professional Pastry Arts, and much more
            • Campuses in New York and Silicon Valley with nearby housing available
            Show more [+]
            5 Program(s) Found
            • Received the 2015 and 2013 “Cooking School of the Year” Award of Excellence from the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP).
            • Accredited by the Accrediting Commission of Career Schools and Colleges (ACCSC).
            • Externship opportunities are available at numerous famous New York City restaurants.
            • Campus is located near downtown Manhattan, within walking distance of many popular attractions such as the Radio City Music Hall.
            Show more [+]
            Good for Working Adults
            • Flexible Scheduling
            • Financial Aid
            2 Program(s) Found
            • Ranked among the Best Colleges in the South in 2015 by U.S. News and World Report.
            • Ranked the 13th  Best College for Veterans in 2015 by U.S. News and World Report.
            • A private institution founded in 1977 with a current total undergraduate enrollment of over 15,00.
            • Its student-faculty ratio is 12:1, and 89.3% of classes have fewer than 20 students.
            • Has students attend one class at a time to ensure easy access to faculty and a more hands-on education.
            Show more [+]
            2 Program(s) Found
            • Students get real-world experience through the required externship at the end of the program.
            • Curriculum includes laboratory sessions, academic preparation and hands-on experience.
            • Program objectives are to provide students with skills needed for cooking wholesome, attractive, food preparations and to assist graduates in obtaining positions in the food service industry.
            • Accredited by the American Culinary Federation (ACF).
            • Has campuses in Melbourne, Sarasota, and Tallahassee, Florida
            Show more [+]
            1 Program(s) Found

            Lackawanna College is the premier, private, accredited two-year college serving the people of northeastern Pennsylvania. With a focus on keeping higher education affordable and accessible to our immediate community, Lackawanna draws 80 percent of its student population right from our own region.

            With a main campus situated in downtown Scranton, Lackawanna’s expanding footprint also includes satellite centers in Hawley, Hazleton, New Milford, and Towanda.

            2 Program(s) Found
            • Has been training students in the culinary arts since 1946.
            • Teaches hands-on culinary training in French, Asian, Mediterranean, Latin and American cooking, along with professional baking and pastry techniques.
            • Helps students gain professional skills in culinary management.
            • Offers an Italian Culinary Arts program where students get to externship in Italy.
            • Its instructors are respected chefs who put their dedication and life experiences into their instruction.
            Show more [+]
            Good for Working Adults
            • Accredited
            • Flexible Scheduling
            • Financial Aid