"We only charge for the potatoes ... the fat is free!"
By Cynthia Bowan
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I was flipping through the channels recently, and came across some unknown comedian. His routine included the following:
"I stopped at a fast food restaurant recently. A sign that offered fat free French fries fascinated me. I decided to give them a try. I was dismayed when the clerk pulled a basket of fries from the fryer that were dripping with fat. He filled a bag with these fries and put them in my order.
"Just a minute!" I said. "Those aren't fat free."
"Yes, they are. We only charge for the potatoes... The fat is free!"
Which, of course, started me thinking about French Fries. I mean, REAL French fries, as opposed to those things in the frozen boxes or bags that one can heat in a single layer in the oven…(although one can use those and improve on them – see recipes below.)
Most folks around the Pittsburgh have a thing about French fries. We love them with gravy, as in hot roast beef sandwiches with lots of beef gravy on the sandwich and accompanying fries. (This is usually served with a side order of creamy Cole slaw, but that’s a topic for another time…<G>) When I was somewhat younger, I was addicted to this sandwich, fries and Cole slaw, but the best ones were served at the original K & N Restaurant in Ambridge, where I grew up. The Greek family who ran the restaurant is long gone, I think…I can still remember how much I loved this dish. In fact, the morning of my wedding day, my sister Susan and I ate there after having our hair done. Good thing, too, because I didn’t eat the anything the rest of the day…and since Merrill and I were moving to Chicago the next day, that meal was more or less a goodbye to my previous life…
Folks around here have been known to just get a large order of fries and gravy as a snack. Folks in our Twin Boros (the towns of Oakmont and Verona) know that Fortino’s Pizza shop on Plum Street offers their fries with a
combination of provolone, mozzarella, Cheddar, bacon, and Ranch dressing (somewhat similar to those served at Dingbat’s, from another local chain restaurant). Oh, and get this! Fortino’s also offers a steak and French fry pizza!!!
Summertime means a trip to Kennywood Park, our fantastic amusement park that recently was named one of the Top Ten amusement parks in the United States by MSN. They serve Potato Patch fries – generous sized portions, hot, fresh, and salty…oh, my…. I think I just gained a couple more pounds writing about these!!! (In other seasons, we make do with the Potato Shack food folks at some of our local malls…) There is something about food at an amusement park. Granted, some of the foods differ according to which part of the country they are in, but in amongst the corn dogs, cotton candy, and funnel cakes here, it seems the French fries always rule.
But Americans are not alone in their love of French fries. People in Canada eat a dish called Poutine, which basically is a dish of fries topped with gravy and Cheddar cheese curds. The Brits love their fish and chips – oh, those fries with malt vinegar sprinkled over top…
For some reason, ever since I started thinking about French fries for this article, they seemed to be everywhere. Well…not everywhere, but you know what I mean. I was watching Food TV’s Unwrapped
series, and Wow! There were people happily dipping fries in ketchup made with tomatoes and jalapenos or chipotles as the show explored hot sauces.
Then, of course, we Pittsburghers also the have Primanti Brothers restaurant chain. The started out feeding truckers in the Strip District (several blocks right outside the city proper, a retail/wholesale food sales area, ethnic groceries, restaurants and night clubs). You get your choice of meat, cheese, and beverage. The sandwiches come out on thick slices of fresh Italian bread, with meat, cheese, optional fried egg, vinegary Cole slaw and French fries inside…served up in butcher-block paper…
Before I stop writing about Pittsburgh, I do have to talk about the marvelous variations of Steak Salad to be found in our restaurants. I am not certain, but I believe these dish started somewhere in this area. You make a basic salad: greens, tomato wedges, olives, hard-cooked egg wedges, pepperocini…then you add sautéed bell peppers and onions, hot French fries and sautéed steak or chicken strips… The best dressing is a sweet and sour or Ranch…Bethany came home on leave a couple years ago and brought two Marine friends with her. We took them all to Primanti’s across the river from us in Harmarville. The girl (who was originally from Alaska) couldn’t believe that there were French fries in the salad…"You
Pittsburghers put fries on everything, don’t you?" she asked, trying to figure out whether to put ketchup on them, or take them out of the bowl!
You know, there have been a few disappointments in the Fries Department over the years. Take a certain fast-food giant, for example. "They" announced that they would use a new cooking oil for their famous French fries instead of fries with "bad" trans fatty acids. We were informed that the fries would not lose their addictive flavor. Nutritionists weren't impressed. The new French fries might have had half the cholesterol, but they were still fattening.
One must realize that the only perfect French fry – health wise - is one that isn't eaten. But one also knows that one does not eat French fries for one’s health! <G>
You know, Americans say "French Fries," but they're not really French. The French call them "Pommes Frites, (pawm-fritt)" but that means "apples, fried." "Pomme de terre" is French for "potato", meaning "apple of the earth."
Germans call French Fries "pommes (paw-mess)" and spell it "pommes frites" like the French. "Apfel (ahp-fell)" is German for "Apple." Germans call a potato a "Kartoffel," except some who call it an
"Erd-apfel (aird-ahp-fel)," which is "earth-apple," which is what the French call potatoes, too.
In America, French Fries are usually eaten with the fingers; in Europe, they are usually eaten with a miniature, two-tine fork. Oh, and BTW (by the way), you won't get your French Fries served in yesterday's newspaper in England anymore. They made a law against it. French Fries are a more American food than apple pie and hot dogs, both of which are actually German.
French Fries are vegetables. So is ketchup, because it's made (most often) of tomatoes. So, when you smother French Fries with ketchup, cleaning your plate means that you've probably eaten two servings of vegetables, about one-third of the US Recommended Daily (nutritional) Allowance.
A small order of fast food French Fries weighs around four ounces (112g). However, one small order is NOT enough. And, did you know that French Fries are the number two "drunk food" - what people eat when they've had too much to drink. (Pizza is number one.)
So how does one obtain a great French fry? Well, it all starts with a potato that has been peeled and cut into strips. Keep in mind that size doesn't matter here: thin shoestring potatoes, big wedges, whatever you like, so long as they're all cut close to the same size to ensure an even cooking. Most russet potatoes,
especially the russet nugget variety, will produce excellent fries. If you intend on using the potatoes for fries, do not keep your potatoes in the refrigerator. Ideally, raw potatoes should be stored at 55F. Too cold a temperature will result in sugar streaking or fries that may look golden when you cook them but they will not be thoroughly cooked.
One key thing to remember when working with potatoes is to keep them covered by water after you have peeled them, and again after you've cut them into strips. This prevents them from oxidizing and turning brown. And don't forget to pat dry potatoes that have been sitting in water before you put them in the fryer -- water and hot oil are not good friends and dripping water will cause the oil to spit and splatter.
The key to a French fry that's nicely cooked on the inside and crispy on the outside is cooking them twice. Therefore, blanching, in the case of French fries, means briefly cooking them in oil that's about 300-325 degrees. This is to cook the inside, so take them out before they start getting any color. Remember that overfilling a fry basket can result in limp fries, fries of assorted colors/ and or cause them to stick together. Finally, to ensure a proper color when the fries are finished, make sure that the oil temperature is correct and not too hot, that the fries are left in the oil for the correct
amount of time, and that the oil is not too old or dirty.
The second dip in the fryer at the higher temperature (350 to 375F.) is when you get that golden brown color. It also reheats the fries, so be sure to have a stack of paper towels and a saltshaker close at hand. As soon as you get those potatoes out of the fryer, shake a little salt over them. (BTW -potatoes can be peeled, cut and left in water over night. Additionally, French fries can be blanched a little ahead of time (an hour or two) and then given a final fry just before serving.) Then sit down, relax and appreciate your handiwork.
So that’s the basics. I hope I’ve gotten you interested in the art of real French fries – the making and eating, as opposed to the opening of a frozen bag and baking. To that end, here are some more recipes you can try. I hope you will Enjoy! the following, and as always, CYH – consider yourself hugged.
Fast Food French Fries
6-8 c. vegetable oil
2/3 c. sugar
4 c. warm water
4-5 lg. potatoes, peeled
Salt
Heat oil in deep frying pan over medium heat slowly, bringing up to frying temperature. Mix sugar and water in large bowl. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise, then into strips about 1/4". Place potatoes in water, soak for 15 minutes. Drain well and
dry thoroughly on paper towels to absorb any moisture left. To test the oil, add a couple of potato slices. Cook them for about 5-6 minutes, remove and cool, then taste. They should not get too dark too soon, and should be soft in the middle. If the oil is too hot, turn the heat down. If fries aren't cooked enough, turn heat up. When oil is ready, put fries in, cook for 1 minute, remove and cool. This blanches them and is absolutely necessary. When ready to serve, add potatoes to hot oil and fry until done.
Sprinkle with salt and serve.
Oven French Fries
3 lg. potatoes
Ice water
1/4 c. butter (1/2 stick)
Onion or garlic salt
Paprika
Scrub potatoes, do not peel. Cut into sticks as for French fries. Cover with ice water; allow to stand 30 minutes. Sprinkle to taste with onion or garlic salt and paprika. Bake at 450F., 25 minutes, or until tender and brown. Turn occasionally.
Serves 4.
Jerry Orbach's Guiltless Yuletide French Fries
1/3 c. olive oil
1 red chili pepper, seeded, halved
1 green chili pepper, seeded, halved
1 bay leaf
5 lg. potatoes, cut in 1/2" slices
salt and pepper, to taste
garlic powder, to taste
1 T. paprika
Garnish: whole red and green chili peppers
Oil:
(Prepare the night before serving): Pour olive oil into a measuring cup. Add red and green chili peppers and bay leaf. Cover cup and refrigerate overnight to flavor oil.
French Fries: Preheat oven to 350F. Place potatoes in large mixing bowl. Season the potatoes with some salt, pepper, garlic powder, and paprika. Remove peppers and bay leaf from oil. Toss potatoes with oil. Place in shallow baking pan. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden-brown, turning several times to allow to brown evenly and to keep from sticking.
Transfer to serving platter and garnish with whole chilies. Serves 4.
Seasoned Fries like Hardee's and Rally's (CLONE)
1 bag frozen plain French Fries
Flour
Batter:
1 c. pancake mix (box mix)
2 c. club soda
Seasoning:
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. ginger
1/4 tsp. dry mustard
1 T. seasoned salt
Combine seasoning mixture and store in a tightly covered container. Allow 1 tsp. seasoning mix for each cup of prepared batter. Prepare batter.
Potatoes: Do not thaw. Dust Fries evenly in flour, place on waxed paper-lined baking sheet to dry for a few minutes. Next, coat the fries evenly in the batter. Fry in small portions at a time in 385F.
oil, about 2" deep in an electric fry pan. Turn fries once to brown evenly. Remove with tongs to drain on
paper towel lined plate. Serve at once. The batter can be repeated as needed to coat the frozen fries.
Variation: Fajita Fries: Add 1/2 tsp. ground cumin in each cup of prepared batter along with the seasoning mix, as above.
Outback Steakhouse Aussie Fries CLONE
1 - 2 lb. bag of Frozen French Fries
1 cup shredded Colby Jack cheese
6 pieces of Bacon, cooked
24 Fl. oz. Peanut Oil (can be reused later; store in refrigerator)
Divide the fries into half, and use the other half later. Heat oil to 350 degrees. If you do not have a thermostat, make sure the oil is hot enough, so that when you set a French fry in there it will cook immediately. If the French fry sinks to the bottom, and barely bubbles, it is not hot enough. Fry the potatoes in small batches, they are done when they are golden brown, and float to the top of the skillet (can use a Dutch Oven). Be sure to drain the potatoes on paper towels. You can keep them warm in the oven while the other fries are done.
When all French fries are done cooking, and drained place them onto a platter. Salt the fries if you like, and sprinkle on cheese and cooked bacon. Pop these back into a warm oven until the cheese begins to melt.
Dipping Sauce:
1/2 c. Sour Cream
1 T. prepared horseradish
dash cayenne pepper
dash salt
dash black
pepper
Combine all ingredients and mix well.
Pacific Grill Fries
1 lb. frozen French fries
1 T. or more Canola or other vegetable oil
1 tsp. each: allspice, curry powder, cinnamon and coriander, mixed together
Dipping Sauce:
1/2 c. real mayonnaise
1/2 tsp. or more Thai bottled chili sauce
Brush fries with oil, sprinkle with spice mixture and bake according to pkg. directions. Lightly salt if desired. Combine mayonnaise and chili sauce; pass for dipping.
Note: Be cautious with Thai chili sauce; it can be fiery!!!
Makes 4 servings.
Deep-Fried Sweet Potatoes (Like we used to get from Hoffstot’s Hoyt's Chicken in Oakmont, PA)
3 c. peanut oil
6 small to medium sweet potatoes
1 c. sugar
2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
Heat oil in deep fryer to 375F. Scrub and slice potatoes as for French fries. Add potatoes to hot grease, fry until golden brown, 6-8 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels. Combine remaining ingredients in shallow plate. Roll potato pieces in sugar mixture, and serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.
By Cynthia Bowan
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Fast Food French Fries |
Jerry Orbach's Guiltless Yuletide French Fries |
Seasoned Fries like Hardee's and Rally's (CLONE)
Outback Steakhouse
Aussie Fries (CLONE) |
Pacific Grill Fries |
Deep-Fried Sweet Potatoes |
Oven French Fries
