Volume 10, Issue 101 - May 22, 2006

Hello ,

Hi, I am Chef Jon Gatewood. When I moved to Danby, Vermont from Denver, Colorado I knew I was in for a change of lifestyle. Honestly, from a large urban metropolis of some 550,000 people surrounded by a sprawling suburbanite playground of some 1.5 million souls more to a small rural township of about 1400. Markets that supplied me with fresh produce and foods from around the world to a market that carries fresh cans of beef stew and baked beans. From having restaurants of every ethnicity and caliber located on every city block to one single farmhouse restaurant within 15 miles. Can you say culture shock? I knew you could.

Instead of curling up into a ball and sucking my thumb as I rocked myself to sleep at night I embraced my new surroundings. The sights, smells, sounds and tastes were overwhelming. They helped me understand what "fresh" really means. Fresh is the egg that was laid this morning. Fresh is the tomato harvested that afternoon under the summer sun. Fresh is the fish caught in the early evening under a canopy of flickering lightning bugs.

To walk through the woods and discover the wild bounty given to us by nature is an epiphany in and of itself. I never tire of it. It brings me to state of mind that allows the forest to show me the way. Fiddlehead ferns, ramps, wild asparagus, wild mushrooms, wild greens and more are out there waiting for discovery.

I now work with local producers to supply as much of the foods I prepare at Gatewood's as possible and allowed by the seasons. I also spend time foraging in the wilds for wild edibles to serve. If you are interested in foraging yourself, please invest in a couple reputable field guides as a first step. If you can find classes given this is also a great way to become more comfortable finding and identifying wild foods.

It is the growing season now and I am looking forward to enjoying some of the truly seasonal treats to be harvested.

Monday:

Spring!

Fiddlehead ferns, ramps, morels and asparagus are a few of my favorite spring veggies. I am lucky enough to be able to find all of these locally in the wild here in Southern Vermont. We are all lucky enough to have access to them in many of the larger and more modern groceries these days too. If you can't find fiddleheads or ramps feel free to substitute asparagus and scallions.

If you are wondering what the heck "ramps" are, they are wild leeks. They do not look like the leeks you get at the market but more like scallions with broad leaves. They have a sweet flavor with hints of garlic.

A quick note, when a recipe asks for butter it is un-salted. When salt is called for it is Kosher. Pepper and nutmeg are fresh ground. These are measures to ensure quality and consistency in flavors.

We will start light with a nice appetizer and a groovy twist on "slaw".

Ciao!

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Fresh Asparagus and Ramp Slaw

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons ramps or leeks
1 bunch asparagus
1/4 teaspoon lime zest
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon thyme
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Slice the ramps or leeks lengthwise in half then turn sideways and slice thinly.

Snap or cut the woody section of the asparagus away. Using a good peeler, peel the asparagus from the tip to the tail on one side only until you can't peel any more. Cut off the tips and then slice the remaining, thicker portion of stalk thinly.

Throw it all in a bowl with the lime zest and juice, EVOO, thyme, salt and pepper. Toss it well and adjust seasoning.

Ramps:

The ramp, or wild leek, belongs to the same pungent genus as onions, chives and garlic, as well as the showy ornamentals such as A. giganteum, with it's massive purple pompon head. The ramp's odor is something similar to that of garlic and onion, but distinguishes itself by its persistence and occasionally musty flavor.

Ramps are native to eastern North America, ranging from the rich, moist woodlands of Nova Scotia and southern Quebec, south through New England and the central Appalachian states, down into the cool upland portions of Georgia, and as far west as Iowa and Minnesota.

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Fiddlehead Fern Cakes with Lemon Dill Remoulade

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

2 cups fiddlehead ferns, cleaned
2 quarts water
1 slice lemon
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons ramps, sliced
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cup panko
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Lemon Dill Remoulade (recipe follows)

Preparation:

In a medium stock pot bring the water, lemon slice and teaspoon salt to a rolling boil. Add the fiddlehead ferns and par boil for 5 minutes. Strain and shock with ice water.

Chop the fiddlehead ferns and mix with remaining ingredients. Let stand 5 minutes then form patties about 3/4 inch thick and 3 inches in diameter.

Dredge in flour and fry in about 1/4 inch of oil over medium heat until golden brown, flipping once. Drain on paper towels and serve with remoulade.

Lemon Dill Remoulade

This is a very simple sauce to make but SO delicious!

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 1/4 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon dill, minced
1 teaspoon capers, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Mix it up baby!