Volume 10, Issue 102 - May 23, 2006

Good Day ,

I love how fiddleheads, ramps, morels and asparagus all pop up around the same time! They work so well together and have the flavor, no the very essence of spring. No morels or moola for morels? You can use criminis instead. They don't taste the same by any means but as far as mushrooms go they aren't too shabby.

Chef Jon Gatewood

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Asparagus Risotto with Truffle Oil and Fried Asparagus Skins

This risotto is frequently requested at the restaurant. Not low calorie but if you forage for your own wild asparagus you deserve it!

Makes 10 servings

Ingredients:

1 bunch asparagus, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons shallot, minced
2 tablespoons garlic, minced
1/2 bay leaf
1 1/4 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine
1 1/2 quarts water, hot
4 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon truffle oil

Preparation:

Salt the asparagus skins and reserve for later.

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat sauté, the asparagus in half of the oil for 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove the asparagus and sauté the shallots, garlic and bay leaf with remaining oil until translucent. Add rice and stir until hot to the touch, about 3 minutes.

Deglaze with wine and reduce slightly. Add 1 1/2 quarts of hot water (or asparagus stock) and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Stirring becomes more important as the liquid is absorbed toward the end, you don't want it to stick to the bottom. Once the liquid is reduced by half add the asparagus back in. Check doneness once liquid is mostly absorbed. Add more liquid if needed.

When rice is done, that's a touch past al dente, remove bay leaf and add butter and cheese. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Risotto should be creamy but not gummy. Try not to over cook.

Toss the asparagus skins with flour and fry in 350 degree oil. Once crispy but not overly brown remove from oil, drain and use as garnish.

Drizzle some truffle oil over to finish.

Note: I like to make a quick asparagus stock with the woody sections of the asparagus.

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Fiddlehead Ferns:

Fiddleheads are young, edible fern shoots that are gathered when they are still curled. They are very similar in shape to the head of a violin, hence their name.

These vegetables are gathered in the spring when they are still tightly curled and between 4 and 6 inches high. This period lasts for about 15 days between mid-April and early July, depending on the region.

Fiddleheads must be collected just days after they emerge, as the plants become inedible once they uncoil.

North American Indians appreciated fiddleheads long before the arrival of Europeans. The plant has also been known to the Japanese and the aboriginal peoples of Australia and New Zealand.

There are thousands of varieties of ferns, only a few of which produce edible shoots. Edible varieties include the ostrich fern and the buckhorn, or cinnamon fern. The fiddleheads of the bracken fern, which are highly prized in Japan, contain a carcinogenic substance that can be neutralized by roasting the plants before using them. Brakes rise in single fronds, and the fiddleheads are more bitter tasting than those of the ostrich fern.

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Chicken Roulade of Vermont Chevre, Ramps and Dandelion Greens
with Fiddlehead Fern, Morel Mushroom and Ramp Ratatouille

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients:

3 cups dandelion greens, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ramp, minced
salt and pepper to taste
4 each chicken breast halves without skin
6 ounces chevre cheese
1 pinch salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon oregano
1 grind nutmeg

Preparation:

Sauté the dandelion greens over medium heat with the butter, garlic and ramps until tender. Season with salt and pepper and cool.

Between 2 sheets of plastic wrap pound out the chicken breasts to about a 1/4 inch thickness.

Mix together the chevre, salt, pepper, oregano, nutmeg and chopped dandelion greens. Spread mixture on chicken breasts and roll them up. Truss with butchers twine or wrap in foil.

Bake at 400 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes. Be sure an internal temp of 155 to 160 has been achieved. Let rest 5 minutes before slicing.

Fiddlehead Fern, Morel Mushroom and Ramp Ratatouille

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups fiddlehead ferns, cleaned
1 1/2 cups morel mushrooms, quartered
1/2 cup ramps, sliced
1 tablespoon garlic
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup tomato, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon oregano
2 teaspoons lemon juice
sugar as needed
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup water

Preparation:

Over medium heat sauté the fiddlehead ferns in the olive oil for 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue another 5 minutes. Add the ramps and garlic. Be careful not to burn the garlic, keep stirring.

Deglaze with the wine once the ramps are translucent. Reduce by half. Add remaining ingredients including water. Bring to a simmer and adjust seasoning. Cook until liquid is reduced and the consistency is like risotto or a wicked thick stew.