Chef Foodservice Newsletter: Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page: What to Drink with What You Eat.



Volume 11, Issue 69 - October 5, 2006

Greetings Member,

"WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT is a unique recipe, combining the authors' creativity, expertise, scholarship and great love of all food and drink. The respect and admiration that food professionals have for them give them access to a wonderful depth of knowledge and experience that they bring to life in their work. Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg might just be the ultimate culinary / literary pairing!"

—Daniel Boulud, winner of the 2006 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur

We have got some more great tips for pairing food and drink for you today from Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, authors of the new book WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea — Even Water — Based on Expert Advice from America's Best Sommeliers.

 

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Gazpacho Andaluz

Adapted from the recipe by
Jose Andres
Café Atlantico, Jaleo and Zaytinya
Washington, DC
www.joseandres.com

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients:

3 cups tomatoes, very ripe, medium dice
1 garlic cloves
1 cucumber, peeled and diced
1 green pepper, seeded and diced
5 ounces bread, torn in small pieces
2 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
salt to taste
1 cup spring water

Preparation:

In small batches, mix all ingredients in a blender until very smooth. You may have to add more water as water content in the ingredients may vary.

Strain through a colander and chill.

Garnish with a mirepoix of cucumber, green pepper and tomato, as well as croutons and drizzle with olive oil.

Beverage Pairing Recommendation:

The best regional pairing is to serve gazpacho with a dry (e.g. fino or manzanilla) sherry. Alternatively, a glass of Lugana (an Italian white wine), Sauvignon Blanc or Soave would also work.

Adapted from THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page.

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The chef's maxim "If it grows together, it goes together" applies to food and beverage pairing, too. In fact, thinking regionally can take you 50 to even 100 percent of the way to making a perfect match.

So, you will want to definitely consider pairing a dish with a beverage from the same region. For example, consider these classic regional pairings:

- Copper River salmon with Oregon Pinot Noir
- beef bourguignon with red Burgundy
- Spanish almonds with sherry
- sausages with beer
- sashimi with sake
- barbecue with iced tea
- dim sum with Chinese tea

WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT is a wide-ranging food and beverage pairing reference covering more than 1500 categories, including 17 different cuisines — from to Cajun to Moroccan to Vietnamese. You can easily enhance the experience of your guests by recommending beverage pairings that show off each cuisine to its best advantage.

As master sommelier Alpana Singh of Everest (Chicago) points out, "I see serving regional pairings — such as charcuterie with Riesling, or white asparagus with Muscat — as an added value to our guests. It's like sending them on a mini-vacation!"

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Miso-Marinated Steak
(Gyuniku No Misozuke)

Adapted from the recipe by
Hiroko Shimbo
Hiroko's Kitchen and Author, The Japanese Table and The Sushi Experience
New York, NY
www.hirokoskitchen.com

Hiroko told us: "As fish was once preserved in a miso marinade, so was beef. The technique of marinating beef was developed in the domain of Hikone, now Shiga Prefecture, during the Edo period (1600-1868). Even then, Hikone was known for its excellent beef, oumi-gyu. To bring this top-quality beef as tribute to the Tokugawa Shogunate in the city of Edo (now Tokyo), the people of Hikone used miso as a preservative.

"Beef can be marinated in either sweet white miso or salty brown miso. I prefer brown miso, whose very rich flavor complements the robust flavor of beef. Unlike in the Edo period, the marination time today can be short, from five hours to overnight. Marinating meat longer dries it out and toughens it. When you remove the meat form the marinade, however, you don't have to cook it right away; it will keep three days in the refrigerator, stored in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Beef is placed on skewers, broiled, sliced and served with grated daikon radish, daikon oroshi, and ponzu sauce with shiso leaf on the side
."

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients:

7 ounces akamiso (brown miso)
1/4 cup mirin (sweet cooking wine)
1/4 cup sake (rice wine)
3 6-ounce sirloin steaks, 1 inch thick, excess fat cut off
1 stalk scallion, green part, cut thin crosswise
10 shiso leaves, julienned
1/2 cup grated daikon radish, blanched in boiling water, cooled in ice water and briefly drained
1/2 cup ponzu sauce

Preparation:

In a medium bowl, combine the miso, the mirin and the sake to make a soft paste. Spread one-third of the mixture in the bottom of a large pan in which the steaks can fit without overlapping. Place a tightly woven cotton cloth or two layers of cheesecloth over the miso mixture and place the steaks on top. Cover them with another tightly woven cloth, or two more layers of cheesecloth and spread the remaining miso mixture over it.

Cover the pan with plastic wrap and let the beef stand five hours to overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove the cloth from the beef and the beef from the pan, reserving the marinade for a later use. If there is any miso residue on the surface of the beef, gently wipe it away with a paper towel. Do not rinse the beef in water.

Heat a broiler or barbecue grill. Place the beef on steel skewers. Place the beef on the broiler pan or grill and cook until outside is brown. Turn beef over and cook until the other side is brown.

Check the doneness by pressing the meat with your fingers. When it is resilient on the outside but feels softer as you press a little deeper, it is still rare. A one-inch-thick steak takes eight minutes to cook medium-rare.

Remove the beef from the broiler or grill, transfer it to a warmed plate. Loosen the skewers, remove them and cover the meat.

In a bowl, toss the scallion disks and julienned shiso. Arrange 1/4 portion of vegetable mixture onto individual serving dinner plates. Place generous amount of mound of grated daikon radish next to the green mixture. Cut beef into slices and arrange them next to the greens and daikon radish. Serve the dish with the ponzu sauce in individual small saucers on the side.

Beverage Pairing Recommendation:

While sake is the best regional pairing for miso, even Japanese sake experts recommend serving red wine with steak. Serve miso-marinated steak with a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir.

Adapted from THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page.

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