Volume 11, Issue 78 - October 18, 2006 |
Greetings Member,
 Gasthaus
Comfort Food:
As a little boy, when I wasn't at home or at
school, I was with my Uncle Walter and Aunt Ruth at their Gasthaus zum
Buckenberg. I even spent many vacations with them at the Gasthaus. I loved it
there. I started in the kitchen peeling garlic when I was only four years old
and eventually worked my way up to tasks of greater responsibility. In
addition to learning alot about cooking at my mother's side, her sister, my
Aunt Ruth, also taught me a great deal. As members of the Breuninger family,
they shared a seemingly inherent skill for cooking, so it was natural for my
aunt to become cook at the Gasthaus when she married my Uncle Walter. I
learned a lot from him as well. He mainly worked in the butcher's shop at the
Gasthaus, and I acquired my basic butchering skills from him....
My early years at Gasthaus zum Buckenberg, gave me a unique perspective on
Gasthaus culture and its significance in the Black Forest. Gasthaus, or
Wirtschaft as it is also known, literally translates as "guest house."
Depending on where they are located, these establishments vary in size and
often have rooms where travelers can stay the night. Regardless of whether or
not a Gasthaus has overnight accommodations or how large it is, it is almost
always recognized primarily for the comforting, hearty and well-priced dishes
the owners serve in their restaurant. Gasthaus restaurants, like local taverns
and family-owned restaurants in any community, are welcoming and offer
consistent, well-prepared fare. Although only locals are afforded special
seating at the Stammtisch (large round table) - a fixture in every Gasthaus -
they, and out-of-town visitors alike, enjoy chatting over food and a glass of
local beer, wine, or eau de vie.
An excerpt from Black Forest Cuisine.
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.jpg) Hungarian Goulash
Ungarisches Gulasch
After World War I, many Hungarians moved to find a better life in Southern
Germany and settled in the Black Forest. The many varieties of goulash I
enjoyed growing up and leaned to prepare in Gasthaus kitchens attest to the
influence of Hungarian cuisine in our region. Home and restaurant cooks like
to serve this hearty dish because it is delicious and inexpensive to prepare.
A little meat goes a long way here and almost any kind will do. I suggest
using beef here, but you can certainly prepare a gemischtes gulasch (mixed
goulash) by incorporating pork and/or veal. Cooks also occasionally stretch
this dish by adding potatoes. Most often included in traditional Hungarian
goulashes, potatoes add flavor and help to thicken the dish. You will notice
that I do not call for them in this recipe, simply because we usually omitted
them. (If you wish to add potatoes, see the chef's note.) Instead, we added
lots of onions, which not only impart rich flavor, but also serve as a
marvelous thickener. Lastly on this point, because we rely on the onions, few
Black Forest goulashes call for flour or cornstarch to help thicken the dish.
I have included cornstarch in this recipe just in case you find it necessary.
Some goulashes are spicy while others are quite mild. Feel free to vary the
amount of paprika and red pepper flakes to suit your taste. It is imperative
that you use Hungarian paprika, however, as it imparts just the right
combinations of sweet spiciness. In addition, I suggest that you take the
trouble to use freshly ground caraway seeds, as the prepared ground variety is
virtually tasteless. This goulash is a hearty mix of spice and tang, which is
brightened and refreshed with the addition of fresh lemon zest at the end.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Ingredients:
1/2 cup vegetable oil, or 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 cup coarsely chopped garlic
4 pounds white onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 pounds beef shoulder, cut into 2 to 2 1/2-inch cubes
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy
1 1/2 cups tomato paste
3/4 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 quarts Beef Stock (recipe follows)
3/4 tablespoon dried red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 1/4 tablespoons freshly ground caraway seeds
cornstarch, as needed
zest of 2 lemons, finely chopped
Preparation:
Heat the oil (or melt the butter) in a large shallow sauce pan over
medium-high heat.
Add the garlic and sauté until golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Toss in the
onions and sauté until softened and translucent, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Season the beef with salt and pepper, place the pieces in the sauté pan and
cook, stirring constantly, until the beef is browned evenly and the pan is
nearly dry. Pour in 1 cup of the wine to deglaze, stirring with a wooden spoon
to loosen any bowned bits on the bottom of the pan, and raise the heat to
high. Bring the wine to a boil and boil until it is reduced to the point where
the pan is nearly dry again.
Stir in the tomato paste, add the remaining 1/2 cup of red wine and boil
until the pan is nearly dry once more.
Reduce the heat to medium low, add the paprika and sprinkle in the flour.
Pour in beef stock, whisking until smooth and to prevent lumps from forming, add the red pepper flakes and caraway. Simmer for about 30 minutes,
stirring often to prevent the paprika from burning.
Season the stew with additional salt and pepper if necessary and stir in the
lemon zest just before serving.
Chef's Note: Potatoes are sometimes included in goulash and are great
for adding flavor and helping to thicken the stew. If you choose to try this
variation, add 3 cups of peeled, chopped, or cubed potatoes in step 5 with the
spices and stock.
Beef Stock
Rinder Fond
Beef stock is a staple in every restaurant kitchen. With a little preparation
and time it is also easy to make at home. Freeze this stock and keep it on
hand for roasts, stews and sauces.
Makes 3 quarts
Ingredients:
3 pounds meaty beef or veal bones, such as neck bones, shank
pieces, short ribs, knuckles, or leg bones with marrow
3 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy
1 celery root, skin on, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
2 gallons water, chilled
1 (6 ounce) can tomato paste
1 leek, trimmed, cut in half lengthwise, and rinsed thoroughly
3 dried bay leaves
1 small bunch fresh parsley
4 sprigs fresh thyme
12 white peppercorns
Preparation:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Place the bones in a large roasting pan and roast, turning the bones once,
until the meat and bones are well browned, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Drain the fat from the roasting pan, add the wine to deglaze, stirring with a
wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.
Increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees F. Add the celery, carrots, onion and garlic to the pan, place back in the
oven and roast for 15
minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven, pour in the water and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat. Stir in the tomato paste, leek, bay leaves, parsley, thyme,
peppercorns and browned meat and bones and return to a boil. Reduce the heat
to low and simmer, occasionally removing any foam that rises to the surface,
until the stock is reduced to 2 quarts, about 4 hours.
Line a large colander or fine mesh strainer with two layers of cheesecloth,
set in a large bowl and strain the stock.
Cool the stock in an ice bath and pour into jars or plastic containers.
Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
About the following recipe - Braised Rabbit Legs
If truth be told, we never prepared this dish
with just rabbit legs in the Black Forest. Always frugal and mindful of waste,
we used the whole rabbit for a traditional Hasenpfeffer (rabbit stew). Everybody
kept rabbits in my day and they were plentiful on every farm. I admit that
sometimes I would get a bit too attached to the adorable creatures, and when
Fluffy went missing I became worried. My carnivorous side soon took over,
though, and I confess I looked forward to the delicious dish to come.
Home and Gasthaus cooks alike prepare rabbit in all sorts of ways, showcasing it
in ragoût, as well as in well-known dishes such as Hasengulasch (Goulash with
Rabbit). Again, this Hasenpfeffer is based on the traditional stews we often
prepared in the Black Forest, but I have varied it slightly. We typically used
rabbit blood as a thickening agent, but I have eliminated it for contemporary
palates. We also often flavored the stew with bacon, which I have left out of
this version in order to lighten the dish a bit. The stew has plenty of flavor
without it. Finally, rather than cooking the vegetables for a long time as
called for in the traditional recipe, I have added them near the end of the
cooking time so they maintain their texture and fresh flavor.
Begin preparing this dish at least four hours or the night before you plan to
serve it so the rabbit has time to marinate. Hasenpferrer pairs nicely with
potatoes, or, if you wish to be a bit more traditional, serve spätzle or egg
noodles, as we usually did. They are perfect for soaking up the flavorful sauce.
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.jpg) Braised Rabbit Legs
Hasenpfeffer
Makes 8 servings
Ingredients:
5 pounds rabbit legs, skinned
3 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy
1/2 cup vegetable oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ribs celery, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 dried bay leaf
6 cups Demi-Glace (recipe follows) or prepared brown sauce
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme, stemmed and chopped
2 medium zucchini, trimmed and chopped
2 medium yellow squash, trimmed and chopped
1/2 small red cabbage, chopped (about 1 cup)
1 cup sliced white button mushrooms
2 large plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Preparation:
At least 4 hours or the day before serving the dish, cut each rabbit leg in
half at the joint (or ask your butcher to do so). Place the pieces in a medium
bowl and pour in 2 cups of the wine. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in
the refrigerator to marinate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
The next day or when you are ready to proceed with the dish, remove the rabbit
pieces from the wine (discarding the wine) and pat dry on paper towels. Heat
the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan or
skillet over high heat, add the rabbit and sauté on each side for about 1 1/2
minutes, until golden brown. Reduce the heat to medium.
Add the celery, carrots, onion and garlic to the rabbit and sauté until the
vegetables are softened, about 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 cup of
wine, bay leaf, demi-glace, parsley and thyme. Bring to a boil over high
heat, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the rabbit is still
tender but no longer pink, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set
aside momentarily.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a large sauté pan over medium
heat, add the zucchini, yellow squash and red cabbage and sauté until just
softened, about 5 minutes. Toss in the mushrooms and tomatoes and cook until
the mushrooms are just softened, about 5 minutes more.
Return the rabbit to medium heat, stir in the sautéed vegetables and simmer
for about 5 to 7 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper and serve on a large platter.
Demi-Glace
Braune Kraftsoße
Demi-glace is another French sauce that every self-respecting restaurant keeps
on hand. As an apprentice, I prepared it thousands of times for use in a
variety of other sauces and dishes.
Also called brown sauce, demi-glace is traditionally prepared with what the
French refer to as espagnole sauce (a mixture of brown stock, vegetables,
brown roux, and tomatoes), brown stock, and Madeira or sherry. I have
simplified this method to create a flavorful sauce you can keep on hand to add
intense flavor to a number of dishes.
Makes 7 cups
Ingredients:
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1 cup sliced white button mushrooms
3 Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
3 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy
7 cups beef stock
1/2 cup chopped leek
2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme)
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Preparation:
Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, add the
shallots and sauté until translucent, about 2 to 3 minutes. Toss in the
mushrooms and tomatoes and sauté until any liquid they release has evaporated.
Stir in the tomato paste, then add 1 cup of the wine to deglaze, stirring with
a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Simmer
until almost dry, then deglaze with 1 more cup of the wine. Simmer until
almost dry again.
Add the remaining cup of wine, stock, leek and thyme and bring to a
boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, knead together the flour and remaining butter to form a
paste (beurre manié). Whisk this paste into the demi-glace and simmer for
about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the sauce is smooth and velvety.
Strain through a fine mesh sieve and cool the demi-glace in an ice bath. Pour
into a jar or plastic container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
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