Volume 11, Issue 98 - November 15, 2006

Greetings Member,

Curry Leaf:

Curry leaves actually come from the leaflets of an unassuming yet delightfully fragrant, small tropical evergreen tree that grows to about 13 feet (4 m) in height under favorable conditions. The trunk is slender and flexible and supports a series of stems with drooping leaves, giving an overall frond-like appearance to the tree. The leaves vary considerably in size, from 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.5 cm) long and 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1 to 2 cm) wide. In summer the leaves are shiny and bright green on top and the underside is dull and pale green. Being deciduous, at the end of winter the leaves turn yellow and many of them may drop; however, in the tropics, leaves are usually available for picking all year round. The curry tree should not be confused with the decorative, silvery gray curry plant of European origin (Helichrysum italicum), which I believe has no culinary value although some people claim it has a curry-like flavor.

Curry leaves do not taste like curry, but they get their name from being used in curries, especially in southern India. It is not surprising that the curry tree belongs to the same family as oranges and lemons, as even when one inadvertently brushes past a curry tree, the most heavenly, slightly spicy, citrus-like aroma fills the air. As well as having distinct citrus characteristics, curry leaves release a strangely mouth-watering acrid scent that smells bizarrely like burning motor oil yet stimulates the taste buds. The flavor is similarly lemony but lacks the fruitiness of lemons or limes.

Source: The Spice and Herb Bible

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Origin and History:

Curry trees are native to Sri Lanka and India and are commonly found in forests at low altitudes in the foothills of the Himalayas, from the Ravi to Sikkim and Assam. They are found in many domestic gardens, particularly in Kerala in the south of India, where to my mind they have become the distinct signature of South Indian cuisine. Curry trees are cultivated on farms in Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Orissa. As the curry tree is a member of the citrus family, the rootstock has been used in the past for grafting varieties of citrus. They are also related to the well-known decorative mock orange tree (Murraya paniculata). Curry trees will grow in most parts of the southern United States that are free from extreme frosts, as long as they are in a position sheltered from wind.

Source: The Spice and Herb Bible

Buying and Storage:

Good-quality dried curry leaves are difficult to find, most of them being quite black in color and lacking the characteristic volatile aroma and distinct flavor. Should you find any dry curry leaves that have retained their color, the flavor should be quite acceptable. Fresh leaves will keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for over a week and in the freezer for up to two months.

Use:

Curry leaves are used to flavor Indian curries, especially the Madras style. For best results, the fresh or dried leaves can be fried in oil at the beginning of making a curry, as this extracts their full flavor potential. Curry leaves are also used in making pickles and they complement marinades for seafood particularly well. When I returned from my last visit to the South Indian state of Kerala, I was determined to replicate the wonderful curry leaf-flavored seafoods we had enjoyed there.

Source: The Spice and Herb Bible

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Prawns Masala

For those cooks who would like this dish to have a little heat, add 1 teaspoon (5 mL) freshly cracked black pepper to the marinating purée. Pepper is indigenous to the south of India and is still more popular there than chili as a source of spicy heat.

Serves 4 as part of a meal

Ingredients:

12 green king prawns (jumbo shrimp)
4 sprigs fresh curry leaves (about 30 leaves), picked
2 cloves garlic
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 tomato, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon (15 mL) Garam Masala (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) freshly cracked black pepper (optional)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground turmeric
3 tablespoons (45 mL) vegetable oil

To Serve:

1 1/2 teaspoons (7 mL) coconut or vegetable oil
1 sprig fresh curry leaves (about 10 leaves), picked
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) brown mustard seeds

Preparation:

Peel prawns, leaving the tails intact, and butterfly by making a deep incision down the back of the prawn right to the tail, so that the flesh parts and opens flat.

In a blender, purée curry leaves, garlic, onion, tomato, garam masala, pepper (if using), salt and turmeric. Slowly add oil to blender to make a paste.

Coat prawns in paste, cover and refrigerate for 1 hour, then barbecue or pan-fry until cooked through, about 3 minutes on each side.

In a separate pan, heat coconut oil and fry curry leaves and mustard seeds for 2 to 3 minutes, or until leaves curl up, darken in color and become papery and light.

Serve prawns garnished with fried curry leaves and mustard seeds.

Garam Masala

Garam Masala is a traditional Indian blend of spices; some may go so far as to say it is the linchpin of a diverse range of dishes, including curries and butter chicken. Masala means "blend" or "mixture," and garam means "spices"; however, a garam masala is a distinctive blend in its own right, and although there may be many interpretations, they should all have the same taste characteristics. I find it interesting how often Indian cooks add garam masala rather than the individual ingredients; this is, of course, for simplicity.

To make garam masala, blend the following ground spices...

Ingredients:

4 teaspoons (20 mL) ground fennel seeds
2 1/2 teaspoons (12 mL) ground cinnamon
2 1/2 teaspoons (12 mL) ground caraway seeds
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground green cardamom seeds

This balanced, almost sweet blend with a touch of pepper bite lacks the characteristic "curry" notes of cumin, coriander and turmeric, making it enormously versatile as a "spicing" agent across a wide cross-section of dishes. One of my favorite used for garam masala is in the Prawns Masala recipe above.

Source: The Spice and Herb Bible