Volume 12, Issue 017 - January 23, 2007 |
Good Day Friend,
Cioppino
Clams, shrimp, scallops, crab, mussels and white fish (all of my favorites)
blended with fresh tomatoes and wine. How can you go wrong? The seafood used in
Cioppino is
not cast in stone as the ingredients by definition reflect the days catch.
Cioppino means fish stew in Genoese dialect. No visit to San Francisco would be
complete without a trip to the pier for a bowl of Cioppino—the Italian and
Portuguese fishing families there have made it a tradition. Don't wear your
fanciest dress shirt to this dinner though…it can be a little messy. Cioppino is
also another one of those "Sop Soups"…you will want some good bread to sop up
the broth. This recipe is from the Culinary Institute of America's Book
of Soups.
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 Cioppino
Makes 8 to 10 servings
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 bunches scallions, sliced (1 1/2 cups)
2 green peppers, diced (about 2 cups)
1 onion, diced (about 1 1/4 cups)
1 1/4 cups diced fennel bulb (about 5 ounces)
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup white wine
1 quart fish broth
8 cups drained canned Italian plum tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup tomato purée
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
freshly ground black pepper
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed well
10 mussels, beards removed
3 steamed hardshell crabs, fresh cooked or frozen thawed
20 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 1/4 pounds swordfish or halibut steaks, diced
3 tablespoons shredded basil
Preparation:
Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the
scallions, peppers, onion and fennel. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the
onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
Add the white wine, bring to a boil and cook until the volume of wine is reduced
by about half, 4 to 6 minutes.
Add the fish broth, tomatoes, tomato purée and bay leaves. Cover the pot and
simmer the mixture slowly for about 45 minutes. Add a small amount of water, if
necessary. Cioppino should be more a broth than a stew.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove and discard the bay leaves.
Separate the claws from the crabs and cut the bodies in half. Add the clams,
mussels, crab
pieces, shrimp and swordfish to the soup. Simmer until the fish is just cooked
through, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open.
Add the basil and adjust the seasoning to taste, if necessary. Serve in heated
bowls or soup plates.
Source: Culinary Institute of America's Book of Soups
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Fish Chowder:
From the coast of California, we now head to New England where fish chowder has
to be done right. Fish chowder was a classic long before the now famed New England Clam Chowder. Jasper White, who wrote
50
Chowders, claims that the first and oldest known printed fish chowder recipe was
in the Boston Evening Post on September 23, 1751.
Fish Chowder is usually served with those small hexagonal Oyster Crackers. They
don't taste like oysters, but that is what they call them. The fish of choice
for this New England favorite is cod and it should be added at the very end and
allowed to flake in the creamy soup.
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My Mom used to make a great fish chowder and it
reminds me of this one adapted from ‘‘Jasper White's Cooking from New England''
(Harper & Row).
 New England Fish Chowder
Makes 8 servings
Ingredients:
3 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless fish
1/4 pound meaty salt pork, cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large onions, cut into 3/4-inch dice
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
3 or 4 large Maine or other boiling potatoes, peeled and halved lengthwise, then
cut into 1/4-inch slices
3 cups strong fish stock or 2 cups bottled clam juice diluted with 1 cup cold
water
2 cups heavy cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil (optional)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
Preparation:
Leave the fish in as large pieces as possible,
since it tends to flake when the chowder is stirred.
In a large flameproof casserole, render the salt pork until it begins to turn
crisp. Add the 4 tablespoons of butter with the onions, bay leaves and thyme.
Cook the mixture for 5 minutes or until the onions are soft but not brown. Add
potatoes and fish stock or diluted clam juice, and bring the mixture to a boil.
Lower the heat and simmer the potatoes for 20 minutes or until they are tender.
Remove the bay leaves from the stock. Add the fish and heavy cream. Bring the
soup to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes or until fish is
cooked through and beginning to flake. Add salt and pepper, stir in the parsley
and chervil, if using, and remove the soup from the heat.
With a slotted spoon, transfer the chunks of fish, onions and potatoes to soup
plates. Ladle the piping broth into the bowls. Add a tablespoon of butter to
each soup plate and serve with crackers or biscuits.
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